Buckner Mountain - Aug 4-5 2012

Another solidly sunny forecast for the weekend, we look for something that can top our Rainier carryover from the previous weekend.  Buckner Mountain comes to mind.  It is over 9000 ft, involves bringing and potentially swinging some ice tools and a carryover.

The Itinerary 

From the Boston Basin TH, ascent the Quien Sabe Glacier to Boston-Sahale Col, drop down to the Boston Glacier to camp.  On Day 2, traverse Boston Glacier to the base of Buckner.  Ascent the North Face of Buckner to the summit, descent the Southwest Gully, across horseshoe basin and down the Sahale Arm to exit the Cascade Pass TH.


View 120805 Bucker Mountain in a larger map

Day 1 

Radka and Brian M joined for the trip.  We met up at Ashway P&R at 5a. reached the Marblemount Ranger station by 7a.  Started up the Boston Basin TH at 8;30.  TH was busy, we managed to get one of the last parking spots on the road.  on our way up, we ran into some friends coming down from a Forbidden attempt.  We spent some time convincing them to come to Buckner with us, for reason i still can't grasp - cold beer at the car trump over the idea of an unplanned carry over trip - um..

Boston Basin

We made quick work up to Boston Basin.  it is beautiful as ever with the awesome view of Johannesburg mountain   Quien Sabe Glacier is well filled in and the route is direct.












 We took a break at the Boston-Sahale col, taking a careful look at Boston glacier and getting our first view of Buckner Mountain.  First view of Buckner Mountain, our ascent of North face is the snow field up on the left.  descent is the Southwest gully which is the snow field on the right.  yes we all thought Buckner looked steep.

from Boston-Sahale Col towards Boston Peak

From the Col, we scramble towards Boston Peak.  it was best described as an airy ridge with portable holds.  you need to find the solid rock among the many that moves.  it can be a little nerve wreaking depending on your appetite for loose rocks and air.  The ridge turns into a ledge along Boston Peak, follow until you can see the snow field from the Boston Peak.  

Boston Peak and our Camp

We descent down the rock rib (left side of the picture) until the slope is gentle enough to hop on, at that point we're on the Boston Glacier.   We found flat spots to camp on and hang out on the ridge for dinner.  In bed by 8:30, barely keeping my eyes open for a few more sunset photos.

View of Mt Logan from the sleeping bag	Buckner at Sunset from the sleeping bag
Glacier Peak at sunset from the sleeping bag	Sunrise hitting Boston Peak and Forbidden Peak

Day 2 Ascent

Alarm goes off at 4:30a and we're moving by 5a.  We made a fairly direct track over towards Buckner.  Sunrise lifted our spirit and lit up Boston, Forbidden and surrounding peaks.  At the bottom of Buckner I consolidated all the pickets and started leading up.  We did running belay with the second rope team cleaning pro.  The system worked well.  

Pitch 1 up and exit left to the rocks. leftward traverse was steep with on a bergschrund above and below me.    

Pitch 2, up the snow field on the left.  good snow for kick step.  exit top of the snowfield to the right on rocks.  mellowest pitch

pitch 3 up across a few deep rock fall tranches.  a little steeper than pitch 2.  exit on rocks to the left





Pitch 4 Peter led straight up on snow field.  we got into the sun and made some good pictures with the falling snow reflecting the sun.

Pitch 5 straight up the slope.  pretty steep but good kick steps on snow.  i found a patch of ice which i promptly throw a screw in - just for kicks..

we top out at 11:45. It was calm, warm and the view was amazing.  a perfect way to spend a summer weekend. We spent an hour on the summit and found many familiar names in the summit register - we were happy to add our own in there.  We could see our entire descent route which appears long.

Day 2 - Descent

Horseshoe basin, waterfalls and the exit snow ramp

Descent off the summit was good plunge steps. we did it speedily yet carefully as run out was steep and there were some harder snow step to keep us on our toes.  Horseshoe basin has many water fall flowing, and it was a beautiful traverse.  For the most part, the traverse was fairly flat.  The snow ramp up to the south ridge of Sahale was a little steep.  we roped up and put in pickets.  top of the snow ramp, you stay on the ridge and go up on class 3 rock scramble to gain the ridge and get back onto the snow slope on sahale arm.  We didn't have beta on this part and spent some time looking for the class 3 scramble up.  We reached the top of the snow ramp at 4p, the Sahale arm proper at 7p and Cascade pass TH at 10p.

Gear notes:

ice axe
ice tool
crampons
9 pickets
4 ice screws (did not need)
light rock rack
two 30M glacier ropes